which one is....
Labels: ethel franklin betts, harry richardson, l v carroll


the rapid growth in magazine circulation at the beginning of the 20th century reflected both their increased appeal and, again, a growing middle class able to afford them and interested in what they were communicating. because what they were communicating, what they were creating, what they were selling, was the american dream.Labels: george brandt, magazines
(from yesterday) the homemaker magazines and others....
it was a time of revolution in the arts. the line between 'artist' and 'illustrator' became blurred as the creators of magazine covers became collectible artists.
but additionally, i see these magazines, in that time, as kind of like oprah. they introduced the newest things to its readers, brought them the culture, the creativity, and the latest craze in a fancy package, almost like a gift.
i picture edna, one of millions of farm wives way out in the country, sitting on a stool in her kitchen alone, listening to the radio (if they can get a signal out there), and taking a break from her chores. she's just received her latest issue of modern priscilla, with its wonderful patterns, and stories, and pictures. she's connected to the world. she closes her eyes in reverie, dreaming of the blue silk she saved for and bought. she's embroidering it at night from a pattern in the magazine. how beautiful she will be for george in her very own kimono.
none of these magazine covers illustrate japonisme in style, but they have the word 'craze' written all over them. the popularizing of the orient.
(and yes, i do know that some of the images from yesterday and today illustrate chinese rather than japanese images, but i've found so many comments illustrating a total lack of awareness of any difference -- sheet music for 'chinese cherry blossom' featuring a woman clearly in the garb of a japanese courtesan -- that i think they can be included without apology.)Labels: henry soulen, jessie willcox smith, magazines
the impression one might get from discussions of japonisme (like this one) is that it was a phenomenon of artists and the upper class. but that would be wrong.
candace wheeler (whose work can be seen here and here) followed in the same mold as did the instigators of the saturday evening girls and the like in using her own creativity to teach younger women ways of earning a living.
the milieu to which she belonged—a world in which pattern, texture, glint, nature, color, exoticism, and yards of cloth in one's surroundings.... 1
Wheeler was one of the first designers to use American flowers (versus their European counterparts) as her inspiration. She studied Japanese stenciled kimono fabrics for ideas. The patterns she created are delicate and whimsical. Her textiles are masterpieces of the American Decorative Arts. 2
it should come as no surprise, then, that the japonisme of her taste should be communicated to her students, as is evidenced by the covers of some of the "humblest" of magazines, those devoted to needlework and the arts of the home. as these women began to join the creative forces of this country they redefined, expanded, the meaning of the word 'artist.'Labels: henry soulen, magazines




Dear, you’ve been everything that I most lackLabels: galle, kageyama, poetry, robert graves, theophile steinlen
i happened upon a new, to me, site today that i found charming, relevant, and a little disappointing.
the collection seems to catch the publishing industry right at the time of the aesthetic movement, though there is still a fair offering of victorian style as well. but with the aesthetic we have that introduction of the japanese influence.
in 'alice's alphabet,' for example, right there under 'a is for alice' we see a japanese fan on the mantle. and, of course, 'f is for fan.' this is the time of walter crane and kate greenaway, and of the two, i think the first, who has been featured here, was the more influenced. in this collection, we have the gamut. clearly the influence is there, the outlines, the blocks of color, the diagonals, occasionally the calligraphy style, and then too the 'product placement.' and the clearest markings of the era--the page decoration features.
what we don't see much of yet is how the line itself began to change; as with women's dresses, the lines in illustration became less rigid, and more natural, purely reflecting their asian influences.

Labels: edward lear, geese, illustration

as we've seen, the principles of design learned from the japa- nese prints were used heavily in travel post- ers. the train was new, as was the middle class, a group with the ability to do some traveling.
some of those dreamers were masters of the fine arts who were drawn to california's promise (some from as far away as germany): william wendt, maurice braun, frank morley fletcher, and more. together, many of them formed the movement called the 'california impressionists.'
many felt that their work often had a very similar feel to the promotional artwork, which only demonstrates the level of beauty in the promotional materials, and points to the stars in the eyes of those who responded when california beckoned.
CALIFORNIA HERE I COME
REFRAIN
REFRAIN
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Labels: california, emil grebs, frank morley fletcher, maurice braun, randal william borough, travel, william wendt
today, in celebration of this blog's first birthday, i want to showcase some things that have special meaning to me. first up is a short excerpt from a book that had a major influence on my life. though it was written over 300 years ago, a new directions paperback was done a little more recently. it is heavily footnoted and, to my eyes, the translation is seamless. what emerges is a book woven of whole cloth, of, perhaps, yellow silk.
I did not begin life in my present humble state. My mother, it is true, was not of noble lineage, but my father was the scion of a gentleman who once enjoyed high rank in the court of the cloistered Emperor Hanazono the Second. As is the way in this changing world of ours, my father fell into decline—to such a point that life no longer seemed worth the living. By good fortune I was well favoured in my looks and was able to take service at court in attendance on a most excellent lady. In due course I became accustomed to the elegance of palace life, and had things continued as they were, I doubt not but that I should after some years have risen in the world. But from the beginning of my tenth summer I fell prey to wanton feelings. No longer was I content to leave the styling of my hair to others; instead I was guided by my own fastidious taste. Having carefully examined the various fashions, I adopted a Shimada coiffure, without a chignon and so shaped that it fell down at the back; this I secured with a hidden paper cord after the fashion of the time. During this period I devoted myself assiduously to the practice of Court Dyeing and I may say that this art owes its later popularity to my efforts at that time. Now life for those at court, whether they be reading poems or engaged in a game of kemari, is ever flavoured with the spice of love.
Day and night my eyes were intoxicated with the vision of that one thing alone and my ears palpitated with the sound of it. It is but natural that all this should have called forth my own amorous inclinations and indeed that I should have come to regard love as the most important thing in life. It was about this time that I began to receive tender missives from every quarter, all suing ardently for my affection—and all equally disconsolate.
There is naught in this world so strange as love. The several men who had set their affections on me were both fashionable and handsome; yet none of them aroused any tender feelings in me. Now there was a humble warrior in the service of a certain courtier. The fellow was low in rank and of a type that most women would regard askance. Yet from the first letter that he wrote me his sentences were charged with a passion powerful enough to slay one. In note after note he set forth his ardent feelings, until, without realizing it, I myself began to be troubled in my heart. It was hard for us to meet, but with some cunning I managed to arrange a tryst and thus it was that I gave my body to him.
Because I was only twelve years old at the time, people were disposed to pass over my fault; indeed they could hardly believe such an intrigue possible for one of my tender years. I myself could not help being amused at their feelings. To be sure, young girls have changed greatly. In former times, when a girl was about to set off for her marriage, she would weep bitterly at the thought of leaving her parents' roof. But our present-day young lady is cleverer by far. She frets and chafes until the go-between appears at the door, quickly slips into her finest clothes, waits impatiently for the arrival of the palanquin and when it comes jumps into it hurry-scurry. Her joy shows on her face up to the very tip of her nose. How different things used to be! Until some forty years ago a girl would play on her bamboo hobbyhorse by the gate of her house until she was seventeen or eighteen, while a boy would wait until he was twenty-four to celebrate the coming-of-age ceremony.
(the second image, above, was an image in a calendar i bought long ago. when i converted my house into a duplex it got packed away and is nearly inaccessible. it has taken me all this time to find it on the internet. it took years to find the third one too, an amazing vase i saw at the orsay in 1989 and have longed to see again ever since. i have found it in no catalogue, or website, until now since france has put its art collections online. the fourth one is from a book i bought in london in 1969. i have to say, i do not know how i knew this kind of art was so important to me. certainly people were not discussing w heath robinson at that time. my reaction to these illustrations, and to other things, as i've discussed here earlier, really do almost make you believe in past lives. the last one hasn't anything to do with japonisme unless you count the tradition of including copy with image. it's included here because it too took me years to find again, having seen it in a museum exhibition in 1981, and it too influenced me strongly, in many ways. enjoy.)Labels: duane michals, henri allouard, ihara siakaku, kawase hasui, okumura masanobu, w heath robinson